In addition, the brief "history of the tomato" section and a short "primer" on growing tomatoes could be useful for the tomato grower living anywhere. Luebbermann also includes a list of the 180 heirloom tomato varieties grown in the Vegetable Trial Gardens at the Wine Center. While most of these are 75-plus day varieties, and require too long of a growing season for our region (unless you have a greenhouse), the author does mention one truly short season variety (52 days), one 65-70-day variety.
The recipes emphasize the tomato variety’s savory vegetable or sweet fruit (dessert anyone?) qualities. I was especially intrigued by a several-page spread suggesting types of wine to be paired with tomatoes, depending on tomato color and acid-to-sugar content. Zone 4 readers will have to be adventurous and substitute heirloom tomato varieties that do grow in our region in most of the recipes. While the dish may still taste exquisite with any tomato, be aware that you might not get the same “taste” effect.
On an early fall day, with my tomatoes just beginning to blanch, having read this cookbook, I’m hoping my crop ripens soon so I can experiment with one of these recipes, paired with a glass of wine from our region. (Published by Chronicle Books, $16.95)
—Rilla Esbjornson
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